Ring Road segment: Höfn to Egilsstaðir

The Iceland East Fjords Drive: Höfn to Egilsstaðir

The Iceland East Fjords drive runs from Höfn to Egilsstaðir, about 250 km of Route 1 that most people cover in three and a half hours and then forget. Do that and you miss the quietest stretch of the Ring Road: nine fjords back to back, villages of two hundred people, reindeer on the verge at dusk, and a mountain pass down to a town with a rainbow painted up its main street. Here is how to plan the day, and what to cut if you genuinely cannot spare it.

The leg everyone treats as a transfer

Every Ring Road plan that slips loses its time in the east. There is no headline stop here. No Jökulsárlón, no Goðafoss. So the east becomes the transfer leg: leave Höfn after breakfast, reach Egilsstaðir by lunch, push north the same afternoon.

The road itself is the attraction. Route 1 does not cut inland here. It follows the coast into each fjord, out along the far side, round the headland and into the next one. You spend the day at sea level with mountain on one side and open water on the other, and the view resets every twenty minutes.

Route 1 is roughly 1,322 km, fully paved, and seven days is the realistic minimum for the loop. If your plan is tighter, read the 7-day Ring Road itinerary and take the day out of somewhere else.

Höfn to Djúpivogur: 104 km with nothing on it

Out of Höfn the road crosses flat farmland, then climbs onto the ledges at Hvalnes and Þvottárskriður, where the mountains drop straight into the Atlantic. Pull into the Hvalnes car park: black shingle beach, a small lighthouse, the ridge of Eystrahorn behind it. Ten minutes, no hike, best photograph on this leg.

Practically: there is no fuel, no shop and no toilet between Höfn and Djúpivogur. That is 104 km and about 1 hour 15 without stops. Leave Höfn full. Fuel runs roughly EUR 1.90 to 2.20 a litre, EUR 75 to 95 to fill a small hatchback.

Roughly 250 km, 3 h 30 nonstop. With stops it is a seven to nine hour day.

Djúpivogur, Berufjörður and the reindeer

Djúpivogur is the first real village, around 450 people under Búlandstindur, a 1,069 m pyramid of a mountain that owns the whole fjord. At the old harbour stands Eggin í Gleðivík, 34 stone eggs on plinths, one per local bird species. Fuel, a small shop, a couple of places to eat. Your safety net if you left Höfn short of anything.

From here the road runs the length of Berufjörður, one of the longest on the route, then crosses to Breiðdalsvík. This is reindeer country. Iceland's only wild herd lives in the east, a few thousand animals that drop to the lowlands in winter and stand on and beside Route 1. Dawn and dusk are the risk hours. Damage from an animal strike is often excluded from standard cover, so check what your rental car policy actually says.

Stöðvarfjörður and Fáskrúðsfjörður

Stöðvarfjörður has fewer than 200 residents and one genuinely odd reason to stop: Petra's Stone Collection, a house and garden filled with decades of rocks and minerals carried down from the mountains by one woman. Entry is in the EUR 10 to 15 range, opening is seasonal, and half an hour covers it.

Fáskrúðsfjörður is the other one to stop in. French fishing fleets worked out of here for decades, and the village still signs its streets in Icelandic and French and keeps a French seamen's graveyard on the hillside. Best lunch stop between Höfn and Egilsstaðir.

After that the road dives into the Fáskrúðsfjörður tunnel, 5.9 km under the mountain to Reyðarfjörður, cutting out the old coastal loop around Vattarnes. The old road, Route 955, is still there: gravel, slower by 30 minutes, worth it in clear weather if your rental has gravel protection. In wind or rain, take the tunnel.

The Öxi shortcut, and why to ignore it

At the head of Berufjörður, Route 939 branches inland over Öxi and cuts across to Egilsstaðir. It saves around 70 km and an hour against the coast road, and every summer somebody takes it because a satnav offered it.

Do not, on a first pass. Öxi is narrow, steep in places, largely gravel, and closed much of the winter. It also skips Stöðvarfjörður, Fáskrúðsfjörður and Reyðarfjörður, which is the reason you drove east at all. A shortcut for locals in a hurry, not a scenic route.

Öxi is not an F-road, so a 2WD is legal on it in summer, but gravel damage is normally excluded unless you bought gravel protection. Real F-roads are a different matter: they legally require a 4x4, your insurance is void the moment a 2WD turns onto one, and river crossings are never covered by any policy. Studded winter tyres are fitted by law roughly November to April. Check road.is or umferdin.is and vedur.is every morning, especially before a pass.

Seyðisfjörður over Fjarðarheiði

From Egilsstaðir, Route 93 climbs 27 km over Fjarðarheiði, around 620 m at the top, hairpins on the far side, and drops into Seyðisfjörður. Twenty-five to thirty minutes each way in summer. Best detour in East Iceland, and it belongs in the plan.

The town sits at the head of a long fjord with waterfalls off both walls. The rainbow street runs from the harbour up to Bláa kirkjan, the blue church. It is as photographed as it looks and still worth the walk. The ferry from Denmark via the Faroes docks here, so arrival days are briefly busy and then it empties again.

Fjarðarheiði is the weak link in winter. It is high, exposed and closes in bad weather, sometimes for a full day. Between October and May check the road status before you commit, and do not sleep on the far side of it with a morning flight to catch.

Fuel, food and opening hours

Fuel exists in Djúpivogur, Breiðdalsvík, Fáskrúðsfjörður, Reyðarfjörður, Eskifjörður and Egilsstaðir. Most village pumps are unmanned, card-only, and they want a chip-and-PIN card. A card that works only by signature or tapping will leave you standing there. Keep a PIN card in the glovebox and never run below a quarter tank out here.

Food is the tighter constraint. Village restaurants are small, many close at 20:00 or 21:00, and several shut entirely outside summer. Village shops are corner shops; the real supermarkets are in Egilsstaðir and Reyðarfjörður. Expect EUR 25 to 40 for a main, and carry lunch on a Sunday or in shoulder season.

Two sensible options for a bed. Sleep in a fjord village, Djúpivogur or Breiðdalsvík or Fáskrúðsfjörður, at roughly EUR 110 to 190 for a double in summer and less either side of it. Or base in Egilsstaðir, which has the most rooms, the supermarket and the airport, at around EUR 140 to 230. Compare both on where to stay and book the east early, because the villages hold very few rooms and they sell out in July. Your next night north is Mývatn.

If time is short, cut in this order

Four or five hours from Höfn to Egilsstaðir is doable. Here is what goes first.

Hengifoss, the banded 128 m waterfall inland from Egilsstaðir, is a separate half day: about 40 minutes of driving plus two to two and a half hours on foot. Make it an Egilsstaðir morning, not an add-on. More ideas in activities.

Common questions

How long does the Höfn to Egilsstaðir drive take?

About 3 h 30 nonstop for roughly 250 km. With Hvalnes, the villages and a proper lunch it fills seven to nine hours. Add another hour or so if you drive over to Seyðisfjörður the same day.

Do I need a 4x4 for the East Fjords?

No. This whole stretch of Route 1 is paved and a 2WD handles it year round with the right tyres. There are no F-roads on the leg. Remember that F-roads elsewhere legally require a 4x4, your insurance is void if you take a 2WD onto one, and river crossings are never insured.

Will I actually see reindeer?

Often, especially October to April, when the herds come down to the coast road between Djúpivogur and Breiðdalsvík. In summer they are mostly on higher ground. Slow down at dawn and dusk, because an animal strike is usually excluded from standard rental cover.

Is Seyðisfjörður worth the detour from Egilsstaðir?

Yes. It is 27 km each way over Fjarðarheiði, 25 to 30 minutes in summer, for the fjord, the waterfalls and the rainbow street up to the blue church. In winter the pass closes in bad weather, so check road.is before committing and never treat it as guaranteed.

Where should I sleep on this leg?

Either a fjord village such as Djúpivogur, Breiðdalsvík or Fáskrúðsfjörður at roughly EUR 110 to 190 for a double in summer, or Egilsstaðir at around EUR 140 to 230 for more rooms and services. Village rooms are scarce and go early for July and August.

Can I drive the East Fjords in winter?

Yes, on Route 1 itself, with studded tyres fitted by law roughly November to April and daily checks of road.is or umferdin.is and vedur.is. Skip Öxi (Route 939) and Mjóifjörður entirely, and build in slack for Fjarðarheiði closing for a day at a time.

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